Traditional Ceremony of the Lamb

We knew we were going to be staying in a yurt our first night on the mountain, but it was very different than I had expected. I had imagined an igloo-shaped temporary shelter, covered in wool. (I got the shape and wool part right.) But, the rest was wrong. Askar's yurt was built many years ago by his father. It is a permanent structure, with wooden ribs. Plain from the outside, it is beautiful inside, filled with cushions and carpets on the floor.

As we entered it late that first night, the yurt was filled with food and family. We were asked to sit down, cross-legged style, and the introductions began.

With the exception of 50 plus years as a collective farm while part of the Soviet Union, this farm has been in Rysbek's family since the 16th century. His brother Askar and his family live here; they shepherd sheep and over 40 horses. The farm is simple and beautiful. There is a small farmhouse and this yurt, where the family takes all of its meals. There is no running water, indoor plumbing, or electricity. A single bulb lights the yurt, powered by a 12-volt battery.

It's 10:30 p.m. by now and the family has been awaiting our arrival. On a tablecloth on the floor are many small dishes of cream, honey, jam, and nuts. There are hundreds of small baked bread puffs spread across the whole. We eat and sip tea, and talk. It is delicious. We think that is the meal.

Then, a whole lamb is brought in. It has been killed to honor our arrival. It is boiled, and the head of the lamb adorns the top of the plate. We are told that the most honored guest receives the head to eat; that is Jim. He receives it with aplomb. Rysbek instructs us on the importance - and ceremony - of the lamb. Depending on your stature, you receive different joints or pieces. After parsing out the parts, Rysbek says that if anyone entered the yurt at this point, they would immediately know the status of each person, based on the lamb section in front of them. This is a custom that has been followed for hundreds of years.