Fairy Chimney Inn

We are staying at the Fairy Chimney Inn, high up in the town of Goreme. This magical area of fairy chimneys was created via volcanic eruptions. The first layers of lava were comprised of fairly soft material; later, hotter lava from closer to the center of earth poured over the top, comprised of basalt and iron. As rivers started flowing through the region, the top harder layers stayed intact, while the lower levels were carved away into very interesting shapes - mushrooms, parts of the male anatomy, etc. People simply carved out rooms, or caves, for dwelling places. Early Christians also carved out many churches.

We are staying in caves ourselves; Mark and Beth are especially delighted with their accommodation. The Fairy Chimney Inn is run by a German anthropologist and his Turkish wife. They have attempted to keep things as authentic as possible (while adding modern plumbing). The rooms are beautifully decorated, with simple furniture, cushions and rugs everywhere. They bought the hotel 30 years ago. It was in total disrepair, but they've gradually upgraded every cave. We asked whom they bought it from, and I loved the answer. They said that the government of Turkey owns all the rock, but you were able to buy the caves from them "because there is no rock there."

The first day we walked through Love Valley to get to the Open Air Museum to see the fresco-covered churches. My personal favorite was the Dark Church. Because this church cave was completely covered for years, with little light reaching the frescos, they have the most vivid colors. I was especially interested in how early Christians depicted their biblical stories/ beliefs. A few of the paintings seemed to show Jesus as a youth (an era that is often skipped over in my religious training). And, I thought it interesting that the magi were shown as riding in on horses (every picture of the manger scene I've ever seen has always had them with camels.)